[ WINES ]
7 good reasons and drinking suggestions for exploring sake.
with Richard Geoffroy, France & Japan.
Richard Geoffroy doesn’t do anything by half measures, as he showed whilst holding the prestigious title of ‘chef de cave’ at Dom Pérignon for nearly three decades.
In 2018, though, he realised it was time for a change and Japan had long been beckoning him. He had been probing the fascinating world of sake for many years and his dream of reinventing Japan’s iconic drink would later become a full-fledged project. But he was lacking the right connections to make this happen until he met renowned architect Kengo Kuma, then Ryuichiro Masuda, the CEO and fifth-generation representative of the family-owned sake brand Masuda Shuzo. Together, they would go on to found IWA, whose first sake brewery opened in Toyama prefecture in 2019.
We sat down with Richard Geoffroy to learn more about his journey into the world of sake, talk about the art of blending, the similarities between sake and wine and his favourite picks before finally swallowing something other than preconceived ideas about sake.
01.
Wine and sake, or the art of palatability
“Wine and sake share the same ultimate goal of achieving harmony, balance and complexity. Admittedly, there is a huge difference between rice and grapes, and between brewing and winemaking, but deep down, the principles of blending are the same – understanding each component part and its attributes then creating a harmonious whole. Harmony has been one of the guiding principles of my life. In my opinion, turning palatability into a quality is fundamental. Irrespective of the vintage, the drink has to glide across the palate, be easy drinking with no sharp or rough edges and have silky presence”.
02.
Sake, the ‘spontaneous’ drink
“Traditionally, sake has always been a ‘spontaneous’ alcoholic drink – one that doesn’t require thought as you take one sip after another. It pairs with food but never competes with it, playing more of a supporting role. This continues to be my intention with IWA – I want it to be a match for cuisine, Japanese or otherwise, but without ever overshadowing it.
03.
IWA, the sake for wine enthusiasts
“IWA offers a different type of balance between the palate and the nose, with greater palate presence. The finest ‘junmai daiginjo’ (Ed. sakes made from at least 50% polished rice with no added alcohol) show unrivalled palate flow. Producers have been perfecting it to the extreme and I have a profound respect for that. But that’s not the tack I have chosen to take – my focus is on balance and complexity with a sense of true fulfilment. IWA is neither too elaborate nor too simple but delivers well-judged complexity”.
04.
Understanding palatability with Masuizumi Platina Junmai Daiginjo Platinum Nama
“This limited edition sake is soft, silky and mouth-filling. It was brewed in Toyama Prefecture for the chef Tetsuya and is the epitome of Masuda-San’s art of creating sakes showing remarkable palate flow and accessibility (Ed. Masuda-San is the co-founder of IWA). This classic rendition of sake’s innate qualities was a true source of inspiration! The sakes are not crafted in a way that is too harsh and they can therefore be enjoyed effortlessly for their drinkability”.
05.
Savouring balance with 2023 Kamoshibito Kuheiji Sauvage
Made from at least 50% polished Omachi rice with no added alcohol, this Junmai Daijginjo is seductively exuberant with faint beading. It could be described as a ‘grand cru’. “This is one of the most balanced non-blended sakes I know. It’s extremely impressive with impeccable balance. You can feel the true devotion here and a profound dedication to rice and how it is grown”.
06.
Experiencing elegance with Daishichi ‘Minowamon’ Junmai Daiginjo
First produced in 1995, Daishichi’s Minowaman is crafted from polished Yamada Nishiki rice using an ultra-flat rice polishing technique. “The resultant sake is exceptionally elegant with notes of tropical fruits, banana and mango. I found this sake incredibly sophisticated. It is both racy yet complex with a true signature style”, says Geoffroy.
07.
How an IWA 5 ‘Assemblage 5’ Junmai Daiginjo will take you by surprise
Geoffroy’s blending expertise truly excels in the latest iteration of IWA’s flagship Junmai Daiginjo sake. This fifth rendition of the brewery’s signature bottling is made from premium sake rice and a combination of sake and wine yeasts, resulting in a profoundly balanced, fine-tuned palate defined by notes of plum, rose petal, geranium and jasmine. “The aim here is to take ourselves by surprise and venture into uncharted territory. Assemblage 5 feels like we’re gravitating towards a whole new level of sake. We express ourselves through the brewing process which mirrors our spirit as closely as possible. Vision and execution fuse to become one, allowing us to set new standards and scale the heights”.
Article - Vicki Denig
Vicki Denig is a wine and travel journalist based between New York and Paris. Her wine industry career began at Sud de France Développement in Manhattan, followed by a Wine Consultant/Buyer position at Quality House Wines. Since 2017, Vicki has worked as a freelance journalist and content creation full time. Her work regularly appears in Decanter, Food & Wine, Wine-Searcher, Wine Enthusiast, and more. She is a Certified Specialist of Wine.
Illustration - Marie-Lou Garcia
Marie-Lou is an illustrator whose inspiration comes from ‘everyday occasions’. In her drawings, she depicts atmospheres using light and colours and by framing close. It can be a casual meal with friends, a book, hands, some flowers or personal items, but immediately the composition comes to life and translates the poetry of a particular memory. Her colour palette is reminiscent of the intense, warm, multi-coloured spectrum of summer. She works with coloured pencils on paper and adapts her technique to textiles (scarves, flags, textile canvasses). After graduating in graphic art from Martinière Diderot (Lyon) then the Besançon fine arts college, she now lives in Paris.
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